An apple tree
can live for more than a Century, a mature tree
follows the same cycle year after year. In summer tiny
buds appear on the branches. The buds develop and grow a
protective covering in the fall. During the winter the
buds are dormant. In spring the buds develop
into green leaves and the flower blossoms appear.
When purchasing your trees for transplant common sense should dictate that
you Do not purchase trees that appear stunted, poorly grown, diseased or insect
injured. Do not purchase dried, shriveled plants even at discount prices.
A healthy 1-year-old whip, approximately 2 to 3 feet
tall with a 1/2-inch diameter trunk and a good root
system, is preferable. A small tree with a good
root system is actually much better than a large tree
with a poor root system.
Selection of the
best variety of Apples
According to the Roman Historian Pliny
there were 22 known varieties of Apples at his time, now there are
an estimated 7,000 + . Choosing the best apple tree for your
situation and locale is critical.
The simplest
way is by checking with local reputable garden centers
to determine which varieties do best in your area.
Different types of apples do better with different hours
of chilling over the winter months , some that require
maximum chill time naturally will not fare well in
southern regions and vice versa. Most apple
cultivars will quickly degenerate without an adequate
annual chill below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
You
may also want to consider "bloom time" . There are
early, mid and late season bloomers. If you are planting
several apple trees or a group of trees you might want
to plant several varieties to ensure a steady supply all
season long. At least two different apple
varieties are best in order to ensure proper
pollination. Crab apple trees are also suitable to
pollinate Apple Trees.
Apple
varieties are self-incompatible for
pollination, they can't
effectively pollinate themselves or other flowers of the
same variety. The highest quality fruit is produced when
cross-pollination occurs . You will need to plant at
least two varieties of apple trees together in order to
maximize fruit production and quality. Make sure that
the varieties you choose have overlapping bloom dates,
so that both varieties bloom simultaneously. Pollen from
apple blossoms is transferred primarily by bees, be
careful not to spray insecticides during bloom when
honey bees are present.
Some popular
Early season varieties are
Yellow
Transparent , Lodi ,Pristine ,Redfree, Beacon, Ginger
Gold, Paulared, State Fair
Some popular
Mid season varieties are
Cortland, Gala, Honeycrisp, Liberty
Some popular
Late season varieties are
Golden Delicous, Haralred, Northern Spy, RomeOther
factors to consider are fruit size, taste, color,
disease resistance, and pollen compatibility, all of
which are important factors.
Planting
Apple Trees
Step 1 - Your hole should be twice as wide and only
as deep as the rootball of the tree. Be sure to
leave space so that the tip of the rootball is 1" to
2" above the original grade {ground level}.
Step 2 - Remove the container. Plastic pots
should be removed by gently laying it on its side
and tapping at the pot until the plant slides out. I
know it's common sense but I'll say it anyway -- Try
to avoid damaging the roots while doing this.
Step 3 - Refill the hole with a blended mixture
of 1/3 Peat Moss and 2/3 of your garden soil.
Firm the backfill by tamping it gently. Build a
watering basin around the perimeter high enough to
hold 3" to 4" of water.
Step 4 - Your basin should be at least as wide as
the hole that was dug. Immediately water the tree
deeply by filling the basin with water once, letting
it soak in, and filling it up a second time. Remove
the basin after this initial planting / watering as
heavy rains and excessive moisture can lead to root
rot.
The use of
Root Stimulator 
at planting time will reduce the risk of transplant
shock which will encourage your trees to resume
their normal growth habits more quickly. If
possible , Plant grass near to the base of the tree
to hold the soil in place. Cutting the grass on a
regular basis will add organic nutrients to the soil
. However, letting the grass grow tall and it
will compete with the tree for nutrients.
Fertilizer
Apple trees should be fertilized every spring.
For optimum growth and quality fruit.
About a month after the initial spring planting,
apply about a half pound of 12-12-12 (or similar
analysis) fertilizer per tree in a circular band
around the edge of your original hole. The first
year after planting, just before growth begins
in early spring apply about one pound of 12-12-12
fertilizer per tree in a circular band under the
trees drip line.
In subsequent years, fertilizer needs generally
increase; the amount of fertilizer to apply can be
gauged by the terminal growth made the preceding
year. Young trees up to six years old should have 12
to 18 inches of new grow each year and 6 to 12
inches of growth thereafter. Growth above or below
these figures would indicate too much or too little
fertilizer.
Do not apply excessive fertilizer - It is
Always better to under-fertilize rather than risking
too much and
"burning" the roots.
If the blossoms are injured by frost and the
crop is lost, don't apply fertilizer, your crop is
already lost for that year, and fertilizer will only
promote excessive nonproductive foliage growth.
External
Links
A Guide to Fertilizing Apple Trees
Effects of soil pH and associated
cations on growth of apple trees ...
CONSEQUENCES OF INSUFFICIENT WINTER
CHILLING ON APPLE TREE
Preventing Frost
Damage Temperatures below 28°F
during bloom will kill the blossoms and eliminate
that years crop. Avoid planting in low-lying
areas, a 10-foot increase in elevation can
make the difference between a good crop and no crop
at all. Cold air is heaver that warm air and flows
into low areas much the same way as water flows into
low areas.
Large bodies of water, such as ponds, lakes and
large rivers, retain heat and help to protect crops
during Autumn and early winter. Planting trees close
to water can reduce the likelihood of frost injury.
Water also cools the surrounding air in the spring
and summer months and delays bloom.
Tree coverings are of little benefit unless a
heat source is present such as a kerosene or Coleman
heater.
Pruning Apple Trees
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Apple trees
require frequent pruning to maintain a good
fruit production. Heavy pruning will not be
required until the tree has been established
and growing for several years.
There
shouldn't be any pruning at all during the
first year except to remove broken or dead
twigs.
You can,
however, train your one or two-year "whip"
to develop a favorble branching habit.
Branches that grow straight out from the
trunk at a 90 degree angle (“L”-shaped) are
the strongest. “V”-shaped crotches are
weaker and less likely to support the weight
of the branch in a storm or under a heavy
fruit load. |
Fruit Thinning of Apple Crops
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Well
maintained Apple trees grown under
favorable conditions can generally
set more fruit than they are capable
of successfully carrying to
maturity. Removing excess fruit from
Apple trees aids in the satisfactory
development of the remaining apples
. Not removing excessive fruit will
effect the following years harvest
also as excessive fruit decreases
formation of flower buds for the
following year and can also cause
trees to skip a year in crop
formation.
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The earlier hand thinning pf Apple trees is
completed, the better it will be in
achieving optimum results. Midsummer
thinning helps improve fruit size and aids
formation of the subsequent year's flower
buds. Most of the flower buds for next year
are initiated during a 4-to 6-week period
following full bloom this year. Therefore,
thinning should be done before this time.
When hand
thinning Leave one apple per cluster, and
space the clusters about every 6 inches.
Start at one end of a branch and
systematically remove fruit. To remove the
fruit without damaging the spur or other
apples on the spur, hold the stem between
the thumb and forefinger and push the fruit
from the stem with the other fingers. This
method removes the apple and leaves the stem
attached .
Disease and Insect Problems in Apple
Trees
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Scab is a plant
disease caused by a fungus scientifically
known as venturia inaequalis . Scab /
Venturia inaequalis also attacks pears,
peaches and nectarines . Damage to apple
trees can be severe, affecting the fruit
harvest, as well as the apple tree itself,
it is the Worlds most severe threat to Apple
harvests . Deformities, cracks and entire
tree death are common in apple trees
infected with scab.
The infection
cycle starts when temperatures and moisture
promote the release of V. inaequalis
ascospores in the spring The spores
are released from leaves of the previous
season near the base of previously infected
trees. These spores rise into the air and
land on the surface of a susceptible tree,
where they germinate and renew the cycle.
Trimmings and
leaf litter should be removed from the
orchard and incinerated. This will reduce
the amount of new ascospores in the spring.
Scab lesions on the tree itself should also
be excised from the tree if possible and
destroyed.
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Scab
infections can be prevented by
applying fungicides at regular
intervals throughout the season. The
objective is to provide a protective
coating that will inactivate any
spores landing on the fruit and
foliage. It is critical to control
scab early in the season from bud
emergence through the second spray
after blossom petals fall . If scab
infection can be prevented when all
the ascospores are discharged from
the fruiting bodies in the fallen
leaves, the disease cycle is broken
and no further source of infection
remains.
External Links
Kearneysville - Apple Scab
Images -Apple Scab Disease - Google
Images Apple Scab Disease - Yahoo
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Bitter Rot
is caused by a fungus which effects
both apples and pears. The fungus
attacks the fruit as it approaches
maturity. Under hot, and humid
conditions, it can destroy an entire
crop in a short time. It is
precelant in Southern States, and
occurs infrequently in the North.
Bitter Rot in apples casues
light-brown circular spots on the
fruit. In more advanced stages,
these spots often show concentric
rings .Under very moist conditions,
masses of pink spores occur on the
rings. Often there will be more than
one spot, and by growing and joining
together, the entire fruit rots.
Some fruit will mummify and if not
removed cling to the tree over
winter perpetuating the disease into
the following season, Other fruits
will fall to the ground. All
should be removed and destroyed.
Images Apple Bitter Root - Yahoo
Images Apple Bitter Rot Google
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Fire blight
is caused by a bacteria
rather than a fungus, it makes
leaves and twigs look appear burnt.
Windblown rain and insects spread
fireblight which attacks the leaves
and twigs as well as the fruit.
Managing Fireblight in Apple Trees
Images Apple Fireblight -Google
Images Apple Fire blight -Yahoo
Cedar-apple rust is a common
disease and easily identified. On
cedars, the distinctive orange galls
(referred to as "cedar-apples")
appear in the early spring following
rainy weather. Spores produced on
these blow to apple trees where they
infect young leaves, primarily
during wet periods. Within several
weeks, most of the leaves are
covered with orange fungus . Later
in the season, heavily infected
leaves defoliate. Defoliation
several years in a row leaves trees
weak and nonproductive.
Cedar Apple rust fact sheet -
Cornell
Images Cedar Apple rust - Yahoo
Images Cedar Apple rust -Google
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Insects
A myriad of
Insects voraciously attack Apples , worms
and moths being the most common.
Codling Moth,
flat headed apple tree borer, Oriental fruit
moth are a few of the most common
See
Control of Worms & Moths in the Home Garden
Beetles,
Aphids and
mites can also be a big pain in
the Apple. The wooly apple aphid is the most
destructive aphid attacking apple trees. It
does a lot damage to the foliage, but the
most extensive damage is to the roots.
Beneficial Nematodes
can reduce this aphid population to a
harmless level.
A variety of
snout beetle known as Plum Curculio is
another regular insect that likes apples.
They spend the winter in the adult stage
underneath leaves and trash. During
the bloom period they become active.
Egg-laying punctures by adult beetles and
larvae feeding in the fruit can cause
extensive damage.
BioNeem
is effective against this pest.
Several
varieties of mites also attack apples as
well as pears. 2-spotted spider mite, and
the European red mite are the most common.
The European red mite a/k/a eriophyed mite
creates a rust-like symptom on the fruit.
These mites will overwinter as eggs on tree
trunks. If problems are present at the end
of the growing season, apply a dormant oil
spray before bud-break the following spring
to help control these pests.
Effective Controls For Mites are:
- SaferGro Pest Out Miticide
An easy-to-use, concentrated miticidal and insecticidal spray that
kills eggs, nymphs and adults of aphids, spider mites and whitefly
on contact. Useful on flowering plants, woody ornamentals, fruit
trees, houseplants and vegetables.
Lady Bugs:The
appetite of lady bugs is quite remarkable. An adult female may consume
up to 60 aphids a day while the smaller male may consume up to 40. One
larva can eat up to 350 aphids during its development. -
Horticultural Spray Oil
Advantages of Horticultural oil includes safety,
effectiveness and limited effects on beneficial insects. Kills
overwintering insects and mites
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Malathion
Kills aphids, bag worms, mites, mealy bugs, whitefly and other
leaf-eating insects. Highly toxic/ non organic , see all applicable
restrictions, read label carefully
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Cedarcide
Non toxic , enhances microbial activity in soils, establishing
healthy plant life. Repelling the egg laying insect and its
offspring , future generations of insects. useful against mites
Harvesting &
Storage of Apples
Apples
mature at various times, depending on the
variety and climatic conditions. You should
observe your apples as their growth
progresses and inspect them for certain
changes indicative of maturity. Flesh color
loses its greenish tint and turns yellow or
white. Depending on the variety the skin
color also changes . When you think the
apples look ripe, taste one. If it's to your
satisfaction - Bon Apple teit !
Apples that
are to be stored, should be picked when hard
but mature, showing the mature skin color
but a hard flesh. Storage apples should be
harvested before eating apples.
Proper storage conditions
help prolong the shelf-life of your apples.
Store apples at 32 oF and
maintain a high humidity. Keep the fruit
away from vegetables as ripening fruit gives
off gases that will spoil some vegetables.
Apples can also be stored in plastic bags in
the refrigerator to prevent fruit
dehydration.
Also See:
Home Made Apple Jelly and Preserves
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Cultivation
Cultivate until early July to help control weeds and prevent
disease. To avoid root damage, do not cultivate deeper than
2". Cultivation after July increase susceptibility to winter
injury; use mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds at
this point. Wood chips, grass clippings or leaves make an
excellent mulch.
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The definitive guide to growing apples wisely, naturally, and with gentle impact on the earth. For decades fruit growers have sprayed their trees with toxic chemicals in an attempt to control a range of insect and fungal pests. Yet it is possible to grow apples responsibly, by applying the intuitive knowledge of our great-grandparents with the fruits of modern scientific research and innovation. Since The Apple Grower first appeared in 1998, orchardist Michael Phillips has continued his research with apples, which have been called "organic’s final frontier." In this new edition of his widely acclaimed work, Phillips delves even deeper into the mysteries of growing good fruit with minimal inputs. Some of the cuttingedge topics he explores include ...
