|
How to Grow
Asparagus
Home Grown
Asparagus
luv2garden.com - Abigal
Gordon's Gardens ®
Asparagus is an easily grown long
lived perennial, given proper care - asparagus plants can be
productive for over a decade. But .. It takes at least two
years and sometimes up to three years to establish an asparagus
patch.
|
|
Planting Asparagus
Plant asparagus in early spring, after
the soil has warmed up to about 50 degrees F. There is no
advantage to planting the crowns earlier in cold, wet soils.
They will not grow until the soil warms and there is danger of
the plants being more susceptible to disease if crowns are
exposed to cold, wet soils over a prolonged period.
Plant the asparagus where it will
not shade the other vegetables and will not be injured when the
rest of the garden is tilled.
You can start asparagus from seed,
but germination is slow (four weeks or more), and weeds are
difficult to control in young seedlings. Plants grown from seed
indoors can be transplanted -the following
spring -to a permanent location .
It is more advisable to start from
"crowns" . Choose large, one-year-old crowns if possible.
They transplant easier, produce plants as vigorous as
two-year-old crowns and are less expensive.
Site Selection is critical for asparagus . Select an area
that is free of perennial weeds . Asparagus prefers a loamy soil that is
well drained. If possible start to prepare a site 1 year in advance of
planting by turning the soil and adding
compost. Check your
soil pH ,
and be sure there is plenty of well rotted organic matter present.
Space asparagus crowns 12 inches to 18
inches apart in the row. When you want more than one row, space
rows 4 feet to 6 feet apart.
Traditionally, crowns are planted in a deep trench or furrow.
Recent research shows no benefit from planting crowns deeper
than 4 inches to 6 inches in the trench. Spread out the fleshy
roots at the bottom of the furrow. Lightly cover the crown with
soil. Gradually fill in the furrow as shoots emerge. Never
completely bury the developing asparagus fern.
Do not compact the soil over the newly
filled furrow or the emergence of the asparagus will be
severely reduced. Spears should emerge within one week in moist
soils.
By mid-season of the planting year, a ridge forms that is 4
inches to 6 inches high and 2 feet wide over the asparagus
crowns. Maintain this ridge for the duration of the planting.
To plant asparagus, dig a trench 6-8
inches deep , wide enough to spread out the roots of the crown
in the trench bottom.
Place the crown in the bottom of the
trench - buds upward. Cover the crowns with 2 inches
of soil. As the plants grown, additional soil should be added to
the trench until it is completely filled at the end of the first
season. Deep planting will allow for easier cultivation without
injury to the plants.
Watering
Moisture during the summer is critical to keep the plants healthy
because next year's crop is directly related to health of the fern
growth after the spears have been harvested in the present year.
Asparagus is very drought tolerant and will generally survive without
supplemental watering. It seeks moisture deep in the soil. However, if
rainfall is insufficient when planting or afterwards, it is beneficial
to irrigate the crowns. Otherwise the plants will become stressed and
growth will be impeded.
The incidence of disease can be reduced by proper spacing and by
watering early in the day so leaves dry quickly or by using soaker
hoses. Inexpensive Water timer systems
are available .
|
 
Self Coiling Hoses
|
| |
Weed
control
Control weeds by hand-pulling or shallow cultivation to avoid injury to
the plant roots.
In
a small planting, it's more practical to control weeds through
shallow cultivation by hoeing. Using an organic mulch such as grass
clippings that have not been treated with a herbicide also helps control
weeds. . If perennial grasses and broadleaf weeds have gotten out of
control, use glyphosate (Roundup) before spears emerge in the spring.
During harvest keep cultivation shallow to prevent damaging the spears
that have emerged. Organic mulches may be used to inhibit weeds
Common table salt once was used to control weeds in
asparagus. But is no longer recommended. Although asparagus is
more tolerant of high salt levels in the soil than most plants, the
sodium in table salt can permanently destroy the soil structure.
Fertilizer
Fertilize annually . Immediately after harvest apply about 2 pounds of a
5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet , or spread well rotted
manure, or Liquid Fish Concentrate over the bed. You
may add additional well-rotted manure or compost in late fall.
Lime and fertilizer
applications are best based on a
soil test. In general,
two pounds each of actual nitrogen, phosphorus (P2O5), and
potash (K2O) per 1,000 square feet of garden space is
adequate
See
Gurney's Asparagus Food Fertilizer
which is formulated specifically for Asparagus.
|
Recommended
Varieties of Asparagus for Home Growers
Asparagus plants are either male or female.
The female plants bear seeds, and sprout new seedlings which takes
considerable energy from the plant and causes overcrowding in the bed. Male
plants obviously do not, produce thicker, they put no energy into seeds and
produce larger spears because of this.
The following are my personal favorites, you of course may prefer to scan
any of the many
online
nurseries and seed catalogs.
|
All Male Varieties |
|
Mixed Varieties |
|
Jersey King - All male--yields twice what male/female asparagus
types do. Bears bigger, more tender spears, too. No "volunteers" to draw
insects. Resists fusarium wilt, root rot and rust.
|
|
Mary Washington - Tightly budded stalks hold at peak quality and
flavor over an extra-long cutting period. Rich emerald-green spears
are extremely uniform in size, with delicate taste steamed or
blanched. |
|
Jersey Knight - Prolific all-male strain should please
even the most ardent asparagus fan! Spear tips stay tight past
the harvest- green, sweet and tender. Rust resistant. |
|
Purple Passion Larger, sweeter and tastier spears than the
more common green types. Produces for years. Stalks turn green when
cooked. |
Seed & Nursery Catalogs
Pests and Diseases
Common to Asparagus Plants
|
Asparagus Beetles
Asparagus beetle adults are a blue/black beetle with a
red underside and yellow spots. The larvae are a soft, green
/Yellow grub. Both feed on asparagus spears by chewing the
tips and spear surfaces which leads to scarring and staining
of the spears.
Eggs are laid on developing spears with the eggs being
small, elongated and black - sticking out lengthwise from
the side of asparagus spears.
Early control of beetles is important to reduce feeding
damage later. The first defense once there presence has been
detected is Liquid Rotenone/Pyrethrin 8 oz
Malathion Spray ,
will provide an effective chemical control in the event of
severe chronic infestation
. Effective Predator insects are
Lady Bugs and
Lace wings
|

|
|
|
|
|
Fusarium Root and Crown Rot
[Image]
The major disease problem of asparagus is caused by
two species of fungi which causes decay of storage roots,
stems and crowns. This fungus is present in all agricultural soils and
infects corn, grasses, and related plants as well as asparagus.
The fungus colonizes old roots and crowns, invading directly through
root tips or through wounds Asparagus plants which are under
stress are more susceptible to this infection than those which are
growing vigorously.
Affected spears may shrivel and rot in spring before or after emergence
Infected crowns have hollow, rotted feeder and storage roots . When
crown and stem tissue is sliced open, a reddish-brown discoloration is
visible. Symptoms on fern includes stunting, yellow to brown
discoloration of one or more stalks per crown, and fewer stalks per
crown . Affected crowns decline in vigor and die. |
|
Cercospora leaf spot is caused by
a fungus , it affects all foliar parts of the plant but not the roots.
Infection usually first occurs on young leaves in the margins. Lesions
are small and round with a tan to back center and an indefinite yellow
halo. Many spots on one leaf can cause withering and death. Infection of
the leaf stalks results in pale centered, elliptical tan lesions.
Disease development is favored under warm and humid weather. [
Bonide Remedy Fungicide
]
Cercospora Asparagi / Needle blight may become a
problem when asparagus foliage remains wet for long periods. Plant with
wide spacings and in a location with good air circulation to help
prevent needle blight development.
[ Bonide Remedy Fungicide
]
|
Asparagus Rust
[Image]
"Asparagus spears are usually harvested before extensive
rust symptoms appear. Symptoms are first noticeable on the
growing shoots in early summer as light green, oval lesions,
followed by tan blister spots and black, protruding blisters
later in the season.
There are three distinct stages of rust disease. In the
first stage, occurring from April to July, lesions develop.
These oval lesions are raised, light green in color, and
10-20 mm in length . The lesions are sometimes inconspicuous
and decrease in number from the base of the shoots upward.
The lesions turn cream-orange in color and become sunken in
the center as they mature. During summer months, the second
stage of rust disease begins as reddish-brown, blister-like
pustules develop on the asparagus shoots . When the pustules
mature, they release large numbers of rust-colored spores
that cause new infections throughout the summer. Reddish,
rust-colored, powdery spores are seen when rubbed against
light-colored clothing. Later in the season the third stage
replaces rust-colored spores with black, over-wintering
spores. In some lesions, both reddish-brown and black spores
appear together. Plants affected by rust are more
susceptible to Fusarium crown and root rot.
Spores overwinter on host plant residue, germinate in early
spring, and produce new infections on growing asparagus
spears. The light green, oval lesions are surrounded by a
concentric ring pattern. In young plantings, before stalks
are harvested, lesions develop yellow spore-bearing
structures in concentric rings. "
Plant Pathology University of Minnesota
See Also :
Diseases of Asparagus : Ontario Ministry of Agriculture
Botrytis blight or
gray mold is " a fungus
disease which infects a wide array of herbaceous annual and
perennial plants. There are several species of the fungus
Botrytis which can cause blights; the most common is
Botrytis cinerea. Botrytis infections are favored by cool,
rainy spring and summer weather usually around 15C (60F).
Gray mold can be particularly damaging when rainy, drizzly
weather continues over several days." ....
Cornell University Botrytis blight Fact Sheet
Powdery Mildew "appears
as a dusty white to gray coating over leaf surfaces or other
plant parts . In most cases this fungal growth can be
partially removed by rubbing the leaves. It might be
identified incorrectly as dust that has accumulated on the
leaves. Powdery mildew, however, will begin as discrete,
usually circular, powdery white spots. As these spots expand
they will coalesce, producing a continuous matt of mildew
(similar to dirt or dust). A plant pathologist using a
microscope can determine whether a fungus is present anytime
the whitish patches are present." [Cornell
University Powdery Mildew] There are a number
of products which can be utilized to control and eradicate
Powdery Mildew [View Products ]
.
|
Cultural Practices to
minimize Disease and Insect problems in Asparagus
|
1.
] Purchase vigorous, healthy crowns from a reputable supplier.
Asparagus, being susceptible to diseases,
viruses and insects, some varieties have been bred or hybridized
to be resistant to certain pests.
Resistance to these pests is usually listed on the plant label
using the following abbreviations:
V = Verticillium Wilt
F = Fusarium Wilt FF = Fusarium Wilt race 1 and 2 N =
Nematode T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus A = Alternaria (Early
Blight) TSW = Tomato Spotted Wilt
Remember that
resistance to these problems does not mean they are 100 %
immune,
good cultural practices are still important.
2.]
Crop
Rotation in your garden planting area
3.] Remove and destroy all plant refuse in
the fall and use deep cultivation to bury any remaining refuse.
4.] Do not place diseased plants in the compost heap, as this
will only serve to carry bacterial or
fungal infestation into the next growing season.
5.] Avoid over watering . Use surface
watering methods. Do not handle plants when the vines are wet.
6.] Weeds compete with vegetables for soil moisture and
nutrients and also serve as hosts for insects
and disease carrying bacteria and fungus. Control weeds in and
around the garden .
7.] Control insect pests such as
aphids, which are known to transmit diseases from
plant to plant.
8.] Use
plastic
or organic mulches
to reduce disease and blossom-end rot problems.
9.] Choose a sunny location for your tomatoes. Leaf
disease problems are much less likely to occur in a
sunny location than in a shady one.
10.] Apply recommended fungicides
according to label directions at the first sign of leaf spot
diseases |
11.] Remove abnormal or unhealthy appearing
plants as soon as they are observed. To reduce the
spread of
suspected diseases wash hands and tools with a mild detergent after
handling suspect plants.
Harvesting
Do not harvest asparagus the first season after
planting crowns, It takes at least two
years and sometimes up to three
years to establish an asparagus patch.
It can be harvested for a short time (not to
exceed two weeks) the second year. Puny plants and small spears result
from excessive harvesting , and early harvesting. The second year after
planting the crowns, harvest asparagus from 6 to 8 weeks annually. Weak
plants should either not be harvested or harvested for less time.
Exercise care in cutting the spears to prevent damage to those spears
that have not yet emerged. Cut or snap the spears at ground level. This
practice eliminates the possibility of damaging other spears.
Contact
Information
|
| |
|